I was recently called in to help out on the makeup and hair department for an Asian dating website photoshoot.
The images will be the background images on the different pages. The shoot was for girls, boys and boys and girls together.
I was working with another make-up artist as there were too many people to do on my own and we needed to shoot everything in one day.
I picked this image as an example really. I use most of these products on any male makeup except for very specific products that are skin type and tone specific. I find that male make-up is all about the skin and they need to look perfect and as if they were not using a drop of make-up. Men suffer of as many or more skin problems as we do and they tend to be a bit more careless. Bring on the challenge!
Steps and products used for male makeup
Step 1- Clean and moisturise the skin
I always ask the models (female and male) if they are wearing any makeup. You would be surprised how many men actually use makeup or mainly tinted moisturiser. I clean the skin using a Toner by Garnier with a cotton pad making sure no cotton catches on the beard. While I do this I normally check the state of the skin and assess what areas will need more coverage and attention. Once the toner sets in I apply Embryolisse moisturiser. Men also need to moisturise their skin. I leave it about 2 minutes to set in. Normally while I wait I mix my foundations to match the model.
Step 2- Foundation
I'm one of those who matches the foundation not to the neck but to the upper chest. I believe the neck is always (no matter the season) the lightest part of the body. I do this especially on shoots as in most cases the upper chest will be on show or the model needs to look down so there needs to be a seamless colour between the face and the body.
I carry a Face to Face foundation palette which has all the tones I need to match nearly anyone. For this model I mixed mainly yellow toned shades with a tiny bit of a pink shade and I always mix the Face to Face foundation with a bit of MAC Face & Body. I pick the foundation with a spatula and I mix it in a dish or on the back of my hand. I tend to gravitate towards the Real Techniques Buffing Brush to apply foundation. I apply one layer and then wait a bit to see how it sits on the skin and to see if I need to apply more or if I can go on concealing. On men with a bit of a stubble (like this model) I tend to apply the foundation on the face and just powder on the stubble. You might find that you need to do some colour correction as the foundation might ash a bit from the darkness of the stubble.
Step 3- Concealer
I always rely on my Bobbi Brown Universal Palette of concealers and correctors. This palette has all Bobbi Brown's shades and it's easy to mix and match to match any colour skin tone. I also added to my kit a Dermacolour Camouflage Creme palette of 22 colours. These camouflage cremes are very concentrated and provide full coverage. I used a bit of them on other models. This model had very good skin. On men I always cover under eye darkness and darkness around the eyes. As normally they do not wear any shadows I need to make sure the lids look nice and fresh. I also do spot concealing where needed.
Step 4- Brows
This is a simple but quick step. I run a spooly and a bit of clear brow gel to make sure they stay in place. In the odd case I fill them in if there is any noticeable gap but nothing like I would do on a female model.
Step 5- Powder
I rely on my Graftobian powder foundation palette to set the makeup. I know foundation to set? I find this foundation is great and when we are doing a studio shoot the lights are so strong and the lens will pick up every single flaw in the skin that the extra bit of coverage is always welcome. This foundation is matte so it's great. All ready to go infront of the camera.
Step 6- Lip balm
I apply a tiny bit of lip balm as men also suffer from chapped lips. I do it maybe 10 minutes before the model steps infront of the camera so there no gloss of any sort and the lips are moisturised.
And that's it!
That's all I used for this gentleman on this photo.
On other occasions on men I would use tinted moisturizers or products like Origins Vitazing or Face and Body on it's own always topped with a good poweder.
The photographer was Caron Westbrook. Link to her prot here. She does fashion, commercial, PR, portrait, music and much much more! She's super talented, profesional and a pleasure to work with.
I hope this helps anyone!